MY HEART GOES OUT TO RHEA CHAKRABORTY

It has been more than two and half months now of SSR’s death and from then till now, the media has been vigorously covering the day to day developments in the case in all its facets. Not even a single day has passed when the media has not come up with “another” sensationalised story in relation to SSR’s mysterious death.

Rhea Chakraborty who has been primarily “alleged” to have abetted SSR’s suicide has been horrifically targeted by the media and netizens. While some people have called her a “murderer”, some have tagged her as “drug mafia” and some people have even gone to the extent of calling her “a witch who has performed black magic on Sushant and drove him to suicide.” And why should they not? After all, our Constitution, the Constitution of one of the “largest democracy” in the world, in itself gives its people the right to freedom of speech and expression.

But let us not forget, the same very Constitution which gives its people the right to exercise this freedom of speech and expression, also provides for an equally powerful Constitutional Right- Right of the accused to be presumed innocent unless proven guilty and Right to Privacy. But it seems to me that the Right to freedom of speech and expression under Article 19 has somewhat overshadowed the Right to life and personal liberty of the accused provided under Article 21 of the Indian Constitution.

I still remember one of our initial classes on Criminal Procedure Code (CrPC) where we were being taught “The Jurisprudential Essence of CrPC”.

Reiterating a para from the class notes which reads - “Criminal Procedural Code has been enacted to do the balancing of interest between the conflicting individual interest where the accused is deemed to be presumed innocent unless proven guilty and the societal interest at large which requires the culprit to be punished for the crime that he has committed.” But what we fail to understand is that this societal interest also lies in the fact that the individual interest of the accused should be protected.

Investigations are still going on. There has not yet been a single piece of evidence to prove that it was the accused who is to be blamed for SSR’s death but the media has already declared her guilty. Media has been conducting parallel investigations into the case, needless to say, that it has taken upon itself the responsibility of an investigative agency to dig out the “real truth.” Not only has the media investigated and tried the case but has also pronounced its judgment- a judgment devoid of logic and backed by zero evidence. Well, if it is the responsibility of the media to investigate and try the case, what are the Police and Judges for?

Rhea Chakrovarty’s private life has been laid bare in public. Media has come down to a dirty level and all for the sake of  TRP. Let me remind you that it is the same media that had tried to spread nationwide hatred against people of Tablighi Jamaat by calling them as “terrorists” who had come specifically to spread the Covid-19 virus in India. Very recently, the Bombay High Court in its strong-worded judgment quashed the FIR against Tablighi Jamaat foreigners and held that they were made “scapegoats by the government” while criticizing the media propaganda. The same media had once relentlessly labelled Saravjit Singh, a Delhi resident as an “eve teaser” and “pervert” after allegations were levelled against him by Jasleen Kaur, a DU student who later failed to prove the charges. The Talwar parents who are now acquitted by the Allahabad High Court in Arushi Talwar double murder case were mercilessly implicated by the media based on their concocted and fictitious stories.

Rhea Chakraborty has been ridiculously subjected to trolls, abuses and mean comments from past few weeks which doesn't seem to end. This makes me question if she's really an accused or a victim? Honestly, to me, she is not an accused anymore but a victim- a victim of a vague and ruthless Media Trial. What if she comes out to be innocent at the end? Can she be sufficiently compensated for all the mental and physical harassment she had been made to go through all this while? The answer is clear NO.

I firmly believe that such filthy media trials cannot and should not be allowed. Such a rush to reach the judgment makes a fair trial hard to achieve. Media is considered to be the fourth pillar of democracy. The importance of media in shaping public opinion cannot be ruled out. The media would be completely justified to call for punishment for the perpetrator of a heinous crime but it cannot be allowed to step in the shoes of the judiciary and assume its functions. Moreover, we also must act and behave like well informed and responsible citizens of society and form our opinion likewise. 

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Other reads-

The Girl on the Train Read here

All you need to know before visiting the Great Rann of Kutch Read here

Fate or Faith? Read here

How I fell ill and still decided to go on my first ever solo trip Read here

THE GIRL ON THE TRAIN

Oh Yes! I've been the girl on the train lately.

Trains are hands down my favourite way to commute. They are a window to an unknown world. You can peek into a stranger’s life, share stories with them, exchange food or just be a silent observer. In the confinement of a few seats, there is much to do and see on the Indian Railways.

 I still remember the first time I travelled by train. I was hell nervous. Since we don't have railway connectivity back at our place, I wasn't much familiar with the whole process. It's not that I had not travelled on train before, but this time, it was different. I was on my own.

It was some 2-3 years back when I was travelling to Udaipur. My train was to depart at 5 in the morning from Jaipur. I couldn't sleep the whole night thinking how would I find the platform, my compartment and my seat. Everything seems so much complicated then. For first-timers like I was, it can be a bit of a daunting task.

I spent the entire night scrolling through various blogs which explained how to locate your train. Seeing me a little tensed, two fellow travellers at the hostel where I was staying offered to accompany me to the railway station. It was an instant relief. "But it wasn't a solution right? It was just an easy escape. But for how long?", I asked myself. "I will have to face it one day or the other, so why not today?", I said as I left for the station. I reached the station an hour before the train was to depart so that I had ample time to spot my train.

Now when I think about this day, it makes me laugh wondering what an idiot I was.

 So much has changed over the years. I am a lot more confident now.

• I can now arrive 5 minutes before the departure time at the railway station and still have the courage to say "abhi bhut time hai apne pass, pehle kuch kha lete hain".

• I can now walk in confidently in the Upper Class restroom or sit confidently in 3rd AC with a non-AC ticket in my pocket.

• I can now travel by the train  anywhere across India without even having a ticket and I have now learnt to bribe the TT  for a ticket. (not very proud of it though).

I have been asked this question a lot of times if I feel safe to travel by train.

My rough calculations say that I've spent more than 360 hours in the train in the last two years that makes it approximately 15 days (300 let alone in sleeper). To name a few, I have travelled to Bhuj, Gujarat during Rann, to Prayagraj during Kumbh, to Kolkata and Hasimara (a place that touches border with Bhutan) and to Delhi from New Jalpaiguri during holi, all in sleeper coach. So I can proudly say that I have gained enough expertise over these years to share with you all.

Trains, especially the sleeper coach is considered to be highly unsafe for a solo female traveller since sleeper coaches are exposed to continuous intrusion and encroachment of unauthorised people. Various kinds of unwarranted vendors, transgenders, beggars enters the sleeper coach without any fear and often harass passengers. Sleeper coaches are rarely escorted by any police or security staff. Cases of theft, lifting, pickpocketing are highest in the sleeper class which is why it is generally not recommended for a woman specially if travelling alone.

I wouldn't completely deny the fact that traveling by train is unsafe for a woman but I also don't fully agree to it.

I've met all sorts of people in train- some really interesting personalities, some very weird souls, some people so selfless while some so selfish, some won't stop talking while some won't talk, some so indigent yet so warm. From making friends to being sexually harassed I have seen it all. But like they say, every coin has two sides, it is upon you to choose which side to look upon. Every experience I had, made me who I am- strong and fierce. 

Initially, I chose sleeper over any other class as it is unbelievably cheaper than the rest. But it was not late before I realised that there's a lot more to it (enough to break the monotony of the AC class) than just being one of the most budget-friendly modes of transport. You will come across a lot of articles on the internet which would recommend you not to travel alone by sleeper at any cost whatsoever. When I booked the ticket to Prayagraj during Kumbh I was slightly apprehensive of my safety since it was UP! (no further explanation required). To be on the safer side, I booked the woman compartment and to my surprise, the experience was completely different than I thought it was going to be. 

Solo travelling comes with a lot of advantages particularly when you're a female. Most of the time, people are more concerned about my safety than I am. I have had my share of experiences where people have gone an extra mile to help me. One recent incident was when I was coming back from Bhutan. Due to corona virus, we had to leave Bhutan early. Despite best efforts, I couldn't even get a waiting ticket (forget a confirmed one) since it was holi in the next two days and people were travelling back to their respective homes. The trains were fully packed. I had no option but to buy an ordinary ticket which meant I could travel by train but wouldn't get a seat for 30 hours straight. I boarded the train at NJP. I requested a fellow passenger to keep my luggage and went to stand at the door. I was the only girl in that compartment. Seeing me alone, many other co-passengers happily offered me their seats and made sure I felt safe and comfortable throughout the journey.

NJP TO DELHI FOR INR 380 ONLY/-

I won't be advising you travel tips here (like carrying a knife or a chilli spray). There are plenty of websites to do that for you. I would only say that before you decide to travel in sleeper, you need to be mentally prepared for all the unwanted stares, unsolicited advices, uninvited comments, and sexually coloured remarks that might come your way. I have always believed and lived by the ideology that safety lies in one's own hands. YOU FALL VULNERABLE THE MOMENT YOU ACT VULNERABLE. Believe you me, as long as you are confident from the inside, nobody can dare to harm you from outside. 

It has been rightly said, "In any given moment, we have two options- to step forward into growth or to step back into safety." I choose to grow. What about you?

SOME CHILLING

TEA GARDENS IN BENGAL

HASIMARA RAILWAY STATION

ENJOYING FIRST CLASS AC (THANKS TO MY BROTHER)

VIEW OF GANGA FROM KANPUR BRIDGE

CARRYING 11KG LUGGAGE ON MY BACK AND STILL SMILING

SHARING FOOD AND STORIES

KANPUR RAILWAY STATION

HOWRAH JUNCTION

MY FRIENDS CAME TO DROP ME AT THE STATION

CHILL SCENES

BAREILLY TO BHUJ

REACHING BHUJ

STANDING AT THE DOOR- MY FAV PASSTIME

OUTSKIRTS OF BENGAL

HOWRAH RAILWAY STATION

IRCTC FOOD

RAILWAY PANTRY

JAIPUR RAILWAY STATION

NEW DELHI RAILWAY STATION

READING BOOKS AT MIDNIGHT

HEAVEN'S DOOR

Read my other blogs here-

FATE OR FAITH click here

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE GREAT RANN OF KUTCH click here

HOW I FELL ILL AND STILL DECIDED TO GO ON MY FIRST EVER SOLO TRIP click here

Check out my Youtube Channel here

Fate or Faith?

"Dhriti, wake up! We need to reach before the queue gets longer."

I checked my phone. It was 3.30 am.

"I'm not going anywhere. If you want to go, you can." I said in a croaky voice.

"C'mon, we can't afford to miss this. Get up!", he insisted.

"Arrrgh..For God's sake, Let me sleep.", I said as I dozed off to sleep again.

"Fine, I'm going and you are surely going to regret this later," murmuring these words he left.

Well yes, he was right. We can't afford to miss this. After all, that's what we were here for. But I had given up. I knew (quite literally) it was not going to happen.

After having witnessed Ardh Kumbh at Prayagraj, we were here in Varanasi to celebrate the famous Maha Shivaratri, the Great night of Lord Shiva.  Maha Shivaratri is celebrated to honor the Shiva Tattva (Divine Consciousness). According to Shiva Puranas, when Parvati asked Shiva about one thing that pleases him the most, he replied, “ 14th night of the new moon, in the month of Phalgun (according to Hindu Calendar) is my favorite day”. Hence every year, this day is celebrated as Shivaratri. It is also considered to be the day when Shiva got married to Shakti, for the second time.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Image Source- zeenews

Since Varanasi is considered the city of Lord Shiva, Maha Shivaratri holds immense importance here. On this day, the main center of religious activity and worship is the Kashi Vishvanath temple where the devotees throng in large numbers from across the globe to offer their prayers to Lord Shiva. 

A Day before Mahashivratri-

We knew it was going to be crowded but the rush was beyond our imagination.The streets were flooded with people. Queue to the temple was 2-3 km long. Since we were there only for a day, we could not afford to stand in the queue for 4-6 hrs straight and could not afford to miss it either.

Main door entry was definitely not in our hands that day but a *back door* entry still was. Us being us, we thought of doing something more exciting instead. 

We approached one of the policeman on duty standing near the temple gate and asked, "Sir, is there no other way to do the darshan?" He shook his head.

"Sir, we have come a long way to visit Kashi Vishwanath Mandir. We'd be glad if you could help us out with an alternative" I said. (he knew what I meant)

"Mam, there's nothing we can do today", he replied. "Line me toh lagna hi padega", he added.

This didn't work but we were still high on hopes. Our next target were army men  on duty. I went to one of them guarding the exit gate of the temple and asked as innocently as I could, "Sir, we wish we to visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple but we also have a train to catch at 7. (Ok, I lied!) Is there any way you could help us out?"

"Madam, We wish we could but you see....."

"Its ok. We'll figure out something", I said as we left.

After asking a few locals, one of them advised us to talk to a temple priest as they get direct entry to the temple.

"All you need to do is bribe them a little and they will happily show you around", he said. It wasn't a bad idea. So we went to look out for a priest but couldn't find one. Most of them were busy preparing for the festival. Meanwhile, we got to know that there were VIP tickets being sold at a counter opposite to the temple. This came as a ray of hope. Super excited, we ran towards the counter but by the time we reached, the tickets got sold out. We were disappointed. We decided to come back at night hoping the crowd would reduce by then. 

We went to our hostel, took some rest and came back to visit the temple. It was 10:30 pm but the queue was far from how we thought it to be. There were massive gatherings of the devotees around the temple. Shops were still open and people were in full festive mood. The queue had come down to the streets.

Nevertheless, we joined the queue. After standing there for a few minutes, I asked a lady standing on the other side of the queue, "How long have you been waiting here?" It's been 3 hours now", she replied.

We were tired and exhausted. It was a long day for both of us. We woke up at 6 in the morning, walked around 2 miles to reach Ardh Kumbh, 2 miles to get to the Sangam, and again walked 2 miles to get to the bus station, then took a bus to Varanasi which apparently was packed and came standing for 4 long hours. So we had very little energy left by that time. However, my brother still managed to convince me to come back early in the morning (okay, not again).

Allahabad to Varanasi

4th March, 2019 (Mahashivratri)

3.30 a.m

Coming back, he left for the Temple. It was around 4 am when he called me up and said, "Bhai, es baar na ho paega, fir kabhi dekhenge". 

I burst out with laughter and praised myself for that one wise decision I took of not going with him. So we instead decided to make the most of our trip by not missing onto anything be it a beautiful sunrise or a picturesque sunset, the holy ghats or the famous Ganga aarti.

I got up, washed my face and left to see the sunrise. The sky kept changing its colors  and so did the Ganges. The views were phenomenal.

Sunrise from Dashashwamedh Ghat

After strolling ghats for a while, we stopped at a tea stall. We met a group of journalists there who had come to cover the event. They told us that they get special entry passes to visit the temple. Trying my luck, I asked one of them quite hesitatingly ," Can you lend us two of your passes?" They refused. "It's too late for anything to be done now. Religious procession of Naga Sadhus is soon going to begin. Gates are closed for the general public." he said.

I was sad for not making up to the temple and was secretly hoping for some miracle to happen.

Well miracles do happen.

While we were going back to our hostel, we came across one Naga Sadhu. He asked us to sit with him in his tent. There was something magnetic about him. A young 20-year old boy decked up in white, he was different from the lot. 

We had plenty of time, so we didn't mind joining him. He told us that he was 14 years old when he left his native place in Uttrakhand to become a Naga Sadhu. After talking for a while, he asked us if we visited the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. He was surprised to know that we didn't and offered us to join him with the procession. We couldn't believe our ears. I looked at my brother who was equally  as shocked and surprised as I was.

We instantly agreed to his proposal. He took us to his Akhada (Panchayati Akhada) from where the procession was to leave for the temple. The atmosphere was full of energy. Sadhu's were dancing like crazy and so were we.

It literally took us 3 hours to cover 2.5 km on foot. It was 12 p.m. We didn't bathe nor had any food but the energy kept us moving. They made sure we had the best time of our lives. Not only did we visit the temple but the two of us also got the opportunity to witness the entire ritual along with them.

Watch full video here

After spending so much of our time with the sadhus them and having a one-on-one interaction, my outlook for them slightly changed. Yes, you will come across many Sadhus who will try to loot you for money but don't let the actions of a few determine the way you feel about the rest. Remember, not all Germans were Nazis.

Remember the journalist I told you about. He saw us coming from a distance, rubbed his eyes twice and still couldn't believe if it was us. "How did you do it?", he asked.

"We just got lucky," I smiled.

What would you call it, Fate or Faith?

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Read my other blogs-

How I fell ill and still decided to go on my first ever solo trip.

All you need to know about the Great Rann of Kutch.

HOW I FELL ILL AND STILL DECIDED TO GO ON MY FIRST EVER SOLO TRIP

Ever since I was a child, I wanted to visit Jaipur. I had heard a lot about this place and seen a lot too (in pictures ofc! ). The idea of visiting Jaipur had always fascinated me but I had no plans to visit Jaipur anytime sooner. It was only few days before that I decided that Jaipur, being a favorite tourist destination would be a perfect destination for my first ever solo trip. I had already booked a return ticket from Jaipur to Chandigarh but not for the other one. Maybe because I was still not sure if I should take the chance of going alone.

According to what I had planned, I was to leave Chandigarh on 28th night by train, reach Jaipur early morning, explore the city followed by another two days trip to Udaipur (got a little too inspired after watching Dhadak!).

To the contrary, I caught cold 3 days before the day I was to leave, followed by fever and a severe body ache. Catching cold was a routine affair for me but fever came unexpected. I tried every bit to get away with it by taking heavy doses of antibiotics from time to time and not going to college for 2 days hoping that it gets better. But every effort was in vain. It only got severe with time. My condition worsened to the extent that I could not even stand by myself. My body was shivering all the time. I couldn't walk properly. Going to the mess from my room became a task.

It was 28th and I still had not booked the tickets. I promised myself that I would book the tickets only if my body allows. I was in dilemma if I should go or not. I still remember having a thousand conversations with my body that day asking if it would be okay for it to travel or if it wanted more rest. But all I received were irreconcilable responses. A part of it said to me.. "Yes dude!! Don't think much. The world is waiting for you." While the other part of it said.."Don't even think of doing this! You know you will be alone right? What if u faint or something serious happens? Who would come to pick you up? How would you answer your parents? They don't even know that you're going on your own."

 "Yes, You are right. I should drop my plan." I said to myself. But what if nothing happens? What if everything goes well?

 The clock showed 4. I had only a few hours to decide and I still could not manage to reach a conclusion. And that was when my friends came to rescue. Honestly, I have the best bitches anyone can ever ask for. Wonder what would I do without them! Friends are always your first and last resort when you are stuck in the ocean of dilemma. They came to me like a sun in a cold wintry morning. They gave me the push that I actually needed that time. Their words came like a kick to me."What worse would happen? If you faint, someone will surely come to pick you up. Then just take a train back to Chandigarh" my friend joked. Well yeah, she's right.

 "OK so I am going. Help me pack my clothes", I asked my friends and booked my tickets immediately. It came instant. In next two hours, I had left for the railway station with a bag which had more medicines than clothes. I still recall carrying medicines for almost every genre of ailment I apprehended I might catch.

 The train was on time. I had booked a seat in ladies compartment. I was packed from head to toe, all prepared for the unforeseen battle. But the journey went pretty well. The medicines worked, my body started to show signs of recovery. I dozed off to sleep in no time.

The train reached Jaipur at 6 in the morning. I booked a cab for the hostel (Roadhouse Hostel BOOK HERE). I checked-in and slept for sometime. I left the hostel at 9am. I decided to start the day by visiting Hawa Mahal. Surprisingly, that day was International Tourism Day and the entry tickets for all the government-run heritage places were free.

I skipped Jantar Mantar and City palace. Then, I took a local bus for Amer Fort. As soon as I got down at the Amer Fort, I was approached by a guide (Mr. Tara Chand), who somehow managed to trap me in his bait by saying "Mam, guide le lo. Entries toh aaj vese bhi free hai". I was hesitant initially. After a hard bargain, he agreed to show around the entire Jaipur city for 500 bucks on his bike. Honestly, it was a good steal for a few reasons-

 1. I would get a company. (The soulless walls of the forts were not as fascinating as they appeared in Jodha Akbar!)

 2. The giant architectures looks way more engrossing if you know their historical significance. Only a guide can help you with that. (The Forts and palaces has audio guides facility too!)

 3. Had I booked an uber or ola or took a bus, it would have cost me double my time, energy and money ofc! 

4. He had a bike. What more to ask for? (There are many tour operators who rent two-wheeler for a day at minimal cost.Wait, I don't have a driving license for two wheeler yet. Nevermind!)

 5. You get a personal photographer for free, a boon for solo travelers. (I can shamelessly go on asking people to click my pictures though!)

I visited all the major attractions of Jaipur- Amer Fort followed by Nahargarh Palace.

I again skipped the Jaigarh Fort. (No doubt why I failed in History). After clicking a few pictures at Jal Mahal, he took me to a local Hanuman temple, which was at the outskirts of the city. We then visited the famous Monkey Temple which was 10-15 kms from Jaipur. The monkeys reminded me of Jakhu Temple at Shimla. They were far more disciplined in Jaipur than they were at the latter.

Everything was going well until I noticed fatigueness and a little shivering. "No! Not again", I panicked. I could feel my energy draining from my body. My body was giving up slowly for the second time. I decided to go back to my room. It was when my guide insisted, "You should not miss the Albert Hall Museum. It won't take more than 15-20 minutes." I consented and we went inside the museum.

I was really tired by that time and didn't wish to risk my health any further. I knew my body was in great need of rest. So I asked my guide to drop me at my hostel and decided to visit the rest of the places in the evening only and if my fatigue goes away.

 I started to feel better after sometime. So, I booked a cab to visit the Birla Temple followed by shopping at the famous Bapu Bazar market of Jaipur (the part I was the most excited about). I bought some really pretty items. It was 9 pm already. I went back to my hostel, ate dinner and dozed off to sleep.

 Well, the whole idea behind writing and sharing my personal experience with you all is that it was only after this incident that I, for the first time, realized the importance of keeping good health and a sound body. Believe me, when they say "Your body is a temple", They're right. Respect, Worship and Honour it.

 Also, I dedicate this to two of my friends Geetanjali and Reeta, without whom this trip would not have been possible. 

Watch HOW I SPENT 24 HOURS IN JAIPUR-- click here
Read ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING THE GREAT RANN OF KUTCH-- click here
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ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE VISITING "THE GREAT RANN OF KUTCH"

2019 is here and so are our New Year resolutions. For travel freaks like you and me, many new places must have been added on your to-do list this year too. If the list includes Great Rann of Kutch, let me assure you, you’re on the right blog. This blog is going to be all about the beauty that Rann offers and my experience with some real information, hard to find anywhere on the internet.

THE DILEMMA

Rann was never on my bucket list until I came across a random picture of Great Rann on Instagram. I was home that time for Diwali and had my exams starting in next two weeks.  That picture left me awestruck and I knew at the back of my mind that this is going to be the destination for my next trip. I read and researched a lot about the place but could not find much on the internet. There were though some really good and informative blogs but my questions like.. “Would it be safe a solo girl traveller?” “What should be the budget?”  “What could be the perfect itinerary?” etc etc. were still unanswered. I had almost dropped the idea of going to Rann but I still could not get over that picture. I got busy with my exams and only after my last exam I realized that I would be committing a sin if I let go off the opportunity of visiting this place.

REACHING DELHI AND BOARDING TRAIN

My exams got over on 21st, I booked a tatkal ticket (INR 655- sleeper class) on 22nd and there I was in the train sitting amidst strangers-turned-family talking about life, love and how technology ruined our lives. I live in Chandigarh and my train (Be Bhuj Express) was from Delhi. So I left early on 23rd for Delhi, reached at around 10:30 am at the Old Delhi Railway Station.

I patiently waited for my train to arrive only to realize a little later that it got delayed by an hour. I rested for a while at the waiting room. The train finally arrived at 12:50 pm. The journey was fun and a memorable one. An aunty (an old lady somewhat in her late 60s) who sat next to me made sure I feel comfortable. From offering her home cooked methi  paranthas to narrating her cruel yet entertaining life experiences, she rocked the show.  I could not sleep the whole night because it was extremely chilling. It was rather a big mistake for not booking an AC class. But it was cool for me since I was on a budget trip. We reached Gandhidham at around 8:30am and bid adieu to all my co-passengers. The train got empty after that.

DAY 2 - BHUJ TO MANDVI.

The train arrived at Bhuj at 10:30 am.

I took an auto to taxi stand for 20 bucks. (Autos were cheap pricing not more than 20- 30 bucks for 4-5kms).  The plan was to visit Mandvi and stay there overnight. On reaching taxi stand, I had two major tasks to accomplish. First, to book a cab for the next day for Rann and second, to find a transport for Mandvi. Public transport in the Kutch area cannot be much relied on. Buses are irregular. So the only option one has is to hire a cab for Rann. After talking to some 5-10 cab drivers and negotiating prices, I had to settle for INR 2500 for the day. Nobody was ready to settle for less than that. The rates were really high considering the peak season. Food + the permit expenses was to be borne by me in addition to that. One can also hire an auto (INR 1500 bucks). I took the driver’s no. and asked him to meet me at 10 the next day. I then took a shared taxi (referred to as Toofan by the locals) for Mandvi (50 bucks per head). Mandvi is 60kms (i.e 1 hour) from Bhuj One can also take a local bus for Mandvi. We reached Mandvi at around 12:30pm. Another big task awaited for me—finding a budget accommodation for the night. There are no hostels nor any dorm facilities in Mandvi. However, many guest houses do offer a room with 3 – 4 beds separate for families or groups. I did not book the hotel online because I found them overpriced on the internet. So I decided to personally look out for a hotel/ guest house. I visited 2-3 guest houses but none of them were ready to offer a room for less than 1K. I was tired, hungry and exhausted. I thought of asking a local and that was when an auto wale bhaiya came to rescue. Let me tell you Auto drivers there, were really helpful and kind.  He took me to Swami Narayan Temple but sadly, booking was to start at 4 and it was only 1 pm.Luckily, I read a signboard with “Jitendra Guest House” written on it. I called on that number and asked him the price for a room. He quoted 800 bucks. That was the lowest of all that I had found till then. So I asked the driver to drop me to this place. After personally bargaining a little, he agreed for 750 bucks. The guest house was located in the market itself, rooms were clean and spacious but bathrooms were in pathetic condition.
After taking bath and resting for a while, I left to explore the local market. I visited Osho Dining Lodge, famous for their Gujarati thali (130 bucks). If you’re in Mandvi and missed onto this wonderful place, you would be committing a blunder.  The food was awesome, very much beyond expectations.

I then left for the most awaited destination for the day “Mandvi Beach”. I had only seen a beaches in my dreams or movies. To me it was going to be a complete new experience. I could not hold my excitement. I took an auto from the market for 30 bucks. A few minutes later, I was there (finally!). It was a beautiful feeling which cannot be expressed in words. It felt surreal.

The beach was moderately crowdy yet lively. I looked for a corner, away from the hustle and bustle and sat there for a while admiring the nature and its beauty. Mandvi beach is not like any other Goan beach. U would not find sexy girls exposing their perfect bodies in Bikinis. The place was more of a family picnic spot. So if you go with this impression in mind, you might get disappointed a little. There are one or two tourist attractions in Mandvi including the Vijay Vilas Palace. I skipped them due to paucity of time. After witnessing a magical sunset, I went back to my room and dozed off to sleep.
Watch a snippet from Day 1 at Mandvi, Gujarat- Click here

DAY2 GREAT RANN OF KUTCH

After a tiring day, I woke up afresh and excited for the day. I got ready by 9 am and left for Bhuj through a shared taxi. Finding a shared taxi or auto is quite easy because they are most commonly used as a means of transport. I reached at 10am at the taxi stand, Bhuj. My taxi driver, Daaud, was already waiting for me at the stand. I wondered how tough would it had been for him to get his Aadhar card made with that name (laughing). He had an amazing personality and great sense of humour. He entertained me throughout and made sure I had the best time in Kutch and not miss onto anything.

We decided to first visit Kalo Dungar (Black Hills).  After 10-20 miles, we stopped at BSF check point to make our permits (INR 100 per head + INR 50 for 4 wheeler) since one is not allowed to go beyond that point without a permit for security reasons. So, do not forget to carry your ID cards along. On our way to Kalo dungar, we took another haul at a village famous for its handicraft items. We finally reached Kalo Dungar at 1 pm. Kalo Dungar is probably the only place in Kutch which gives a bird’s eye view of the Great Rann of Kutch. The hill is also the site of a 400-year-old temple to Dattatreya, the three-headed incarnation of Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva in the same body. Legend says that when Dattatreya walked on the earth, he stopped at the Black Hills and found a band of starving jackals. Being a god, he offered them his body to eat and as they ate, his body continually regenerated itself. Because of this, for the last four centuries, the priest at the temple has prepared a batch of prasad that is fed to the jackals after the evening aarti. Reaching the hilltop by public transport is difficult. There is a dharamshala next to the temple if you plan to stay there overnight. The sky was not clear so we could not have a clear view of the salt marsh. This disappointed me a little.

We then headed for Dhordo, the tent city which hosts India's Biggest White Desert Festival, Rann Utsav in Kutch. The tents are highly expensive starting from INR 5500 going up to till INR 12000 per head for a night. I had already booked a dorm online at Royal Guest House (INR 400 for a night) in Bhuj. So if you are on budget, going back to Bhuj after watching the sunset at Rann is the best option since stay options are really expensive in nearby villages too. After strolling for a while in the tent city and eating lunch (Kutchchi thali- 130 bucks), we left for our final destination – THE GREAT RANN OF KUTCH. In no time, I was in the middle of a white desert which is reputed to be one of the largest salt deserts in the world. "It's a little bit like the Taj Mahal -- people think they have already seen it in pictures, yet its size, scale and beauty still take your breath away when it's actually right there before you." I roamed around, took a zillion pictures and waited eagerly for the sunset.

The sunset was nothing less than miracle. Everything about the place was surreal. I was overwhelmed with joy seeing the sky changing colors. After witnessing the most beautiful sunset of the year, I got back to the car and we drove back to Bhuj. The guest house was in the market itself. It was easy to locate it. To my surprise, the guest house was everything I did not expect it to be (in a  good way!). The dorms were amazing (far far better than any zostel or leading hostel chain). It also has a kitchen, so you can cook your own meal.I made Maggie for myself, sat on the terrace for some time, recollecting all the memories I made in these 2 days and went to sleep by 10 pm. It surely was one of the best days of my life.

DAY 3- EXPLORING BHUJ

I decided to spend the day exploring Bhuj. I started the day by visiting Swami Narayan temple. It had a beautiful marble architecture. The Museum in it caught my attention. I was left astonished seeing it. Never had I ever in my dreams imagined of such a hi-tech museum like it was. Photography was not allowed inside.

I then took an auto (for 150 bucks to and fro) and visited the Khari Nadi Bridge (4-6 kms, at the outskirts of Bhuj) which is famous as “Grand Canyon of India”. A scene from Raees was shot here.

Do visit Mata No Madh, Lakhpat village and Koteshwar temple if you can afford an extra day.  I visited the Praag Mahal and Aina Mahal (ticket- INR 50 each). Make sure to check out their timing before you visit. (TIP- Buy a normal ticket. Do not pay extra for carrying camera or mobile. Nobody inside really checks if you bought the ticket which includes photography or not.) Kutch museum was closed that day so could not visit it.

Strolled the local market and made a few purchases. Had lunch at Hotel Green Rock which I found to be highly expensive but the food was delicious.If you don't want to spend much on food, you easily survive on street food (very much pocket friendly), Dabeli being the most common one (INR 10 only). I left for the railway station at 3 pm. The train was to depart at 5 pm. Waited for 2 long hours at the station. Reached Old Delhi Railway Station the next day at 3 pm. And this was how my 5 days journey came to an end.

MOST ASKED QUESTION- Is it safe for a girl to travel solo in Gujarat?

Answer- Yes! it is absolutely safe.There’s always some staring but it’s ok. It's ok for people to stare. It is because you are probably new to them. Take it positively. Start trusting people. I had left my luggage (with wallet and all my valuables in it) in autos a no. of time and went on to stroll around. Not even for once I felt vulnerable. Interact with locals. Talk to them with a smile on your face and they'll smile back at you. Keep your friends and family updated about your whereabouts. Stay a little aware of the things happenings around you. Do a little research before you go. Read reviews, blogposts and watch travel vlogs. Rest I can assure you that you'll have the best time in Kutch kyunki "Kutch nhi dekha toh Kuch nahin dekha."

ITINERARY-
Day 1 - Arriving at Bhuj, Visiting Mandvi and staying their overnight.
Day 2 – Vistitng Kalo Dungar, the Handicraft villages, Dhordo and the Great Rann of Kutch.
Day 3- Exploring Bhuj (Swami Narayan Temple, Aina Mahal, Praag Mahal, Khari Nadi, Kutch Museum, Bhujia Hills).

RECOMMENDED STAYS-
Swami Narayan Temple, Bhuj and Mandvi
Jitendra Guest House, Mandvi.
Royal Guest House, Bhuj.
Taxi Driver’s no. – 9638570692.

BEST RESTAURANTS-
OSHO DINING LODGE, MANDVI
GREEN ROCK RESTRAUNT, BHUJ
PARK VIEW RESTRAUNT, BHUJ

EXPENSES
TRANSPORT-
TRAIN- 655 + 505= INR 1160
TAXI- INR 2500
TOOFAN SHARED TAXI-INR 50+INR 50= INR 100
AUTO- INR 300 APPROX
TOTAL – INR 4060

ACCOMODATION  (PER NIGHT)-
JITENDRA GUEST HOUSE, MANDVI- INR 750. Click here to book
ROYAL GUEST HOUSE, BHUJ- INR 400.  Click here to book.
TOTAL- INR 1150

PERMITS
2 PERMITS (for me and the driver)- INR 100+ INR 100= INR 200
VEHICLE PERMIT - INR 50
TOTAL- INR 250

ENTRY TICKET
PRAAG MAHAL – INR 50 (EXCLUDING PHOTOGRAPHY)
AINA MAHAL- INR 50 (EXCLUDING PHOTOGRAPHY)
TOTAL 100

SHOPPING- INR 1500

FOOD (all days (approx.)-
WATER BOTTLES- INR 200
BREAKFAST- hardly INR 100 (ate street food and fruits mostly).
LUNCH- INR 400
DINNER- INR 300
SNACKS- INR 200
TRAIN JOURNEY- INR 200
TOTAL- 1500 (approx.)

TOTAL EXPENDITURE- Less than INR 7000.

However, if you travel in a group of two or more, the entire trip would not cost you more than 4000 bucks.

P.S- Feel free to contact.
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